Day 4 (Part 2): Otaru continued can be accessed here.
Day 5 will be coming up soon!
Otaru 小樽
Was yet another early morning and this time round the alarm clock sounded especially blaring. Had wanted to reach Otaru early so that I could cover more ground but later realised that perhaps I had too much time to spend over there. To be more exact, it seemed like I missed out on quite a few lovely cafes but there's only so much my poor tummy can stomach (yes, even mine lol). It was a close to 50 minutes ride from Sapporo station to Otaru station on the Hakodate line and the route was extremely scenic as it hugged the coastline. Took a video on the way back but decided to put it up first:
Welcome to Otaru!~
The snow gives the station surroundings an even more picturesque charm
Really liked the rows of kerosene lamps lining the wall, served as a reminder of how Otaru used to be fishing and mining town whereby those lamps would serve as the only sources of light deep underground or out in the sea.
There are a couple of options to get around Otaru and most tourists not on tour groups would usually use the Otaru Stroller Bus (おたる散策バス). A single trip costs 210 yen (about 3 SGD) while a day pass costs 750 yen (about 9 SGD), there is really not reason not to get a day pass. Sadly enough I couldn't find an English version, but here's the Japanese version. The drawback about the Stroller Buses are that they are not very frequent and do not run as early or as late as you want, so I decided to take the intra-city Chuo buses instead.
The Chuo Bus Terminal for all the intra and inter city buses
Not very much more expensive than the Stroller Buses and you get a lot more flexibility with their timings.
Former Aoyama Villa 旧青山別邸 / 小樽貴賓館
It was a 25 minutes ride to the Herring House on Chuo Bus No. 10 and here was where I had strayed fortunately off the path. For most foreign tourists (me included), the trip out of Otaru city centre was usually to the Herring House (or the Nishin Goten Kihinkan) or the Otaru Aquarium. But the driver misunderstood what I meant as I had simply said Nishin Goten, so I had alighted 5 minutes beforehand at the Former Aoyama Villa. I was like, well let's make this an additional unplanned stop in the itinerary, and decided to hike another 10 minutes further inland.
Such tranquil serenity you could only ever get out of Singapore
The uncle was getting ready to go fish and even asked me if I wanted to go on a ride but had to decline as I thought I was going to be running tight on the schedule... should have taken up his offer! ):
After a 1 km trek inland that took about 10 minutes (can tell the road is still inclining upwards)
The Former Aoyama Villa was a luxurious villa built by the Aoyama family, one of the most successful families in the herring fishing industry. The family spared no expense in the materials and construction of the villa and surrounding gardens. The Aoyama family's herring mansion was also preserved, but it was moved to the Sapporo Historical Village (which I visited previously, click here to see more). The place had a pretty hefty entrance fee of 1,080 yen (about 13 SGD) but was very much worth it for its exquisite architecture and priceless relics.
Those are some expensive kimonos.
The villa owners were fond aficionados of good Japanese paintings (nihonga).
An exquisite patchwork display of paintings that made the lobby looked much larger than life.
The traditional alcoves (tokonoma) are built in rosewood, blackwood, Bombay blackwood or Japanese cedar.
A gold lacquered Shinto memorial set... one can imagine how rich the villa owners were.
There was also a European-themed annexe with its early 1900s design stemming from the villa's construction in 1917.
Herring House 鰊御殿
It was a much more relaxing walk downhill but nevertheless it was another 15 minutes before I got to the foot of the Herring House (also know as Nishin Goten). I'll let the photos do the talking below:
The tiny Ebisu Jinja (恵美須神社) constructed in 1883
The Otaru Aquarium and a neighbouring amusement park... the entire scene reminded me of Pripyat in the now abandoned Chernobyl exclusion zone for some reason. Eerie.
Passed by a lot of clippers docked along the coastline... makes for a pretty photo. ^^
These cats were staring at me with such baleful eyes... and totally disliked being petted.
Huffed and puffed to get up to the Herring House and was rewarded with a most spectacular view of Otaru that you would never have been able to see from the city centre. Struggling alongside me to get up was a pair of Japanese ladies who apparently had drove here but unfortunately were unable to park uphill. I guess we developed a sort of revolutionary camaraderie in that short hike and there were very enthusiastic in helping me to take photos inside. The house was a much less spectacular place to visit as it was meant for the fishing folk to dry their fishes (hence the name) and take breaks inside. However, it did have a more down-to-earth charm and rustic vibes that made it much more relaxing to explore around.
Not captured: another picture's length of slopes to climb ^^;
The old storage containers
The attires and equipment of fishing folk in the olden days
To show how low the ceiling on the 2nd floor on, we couldn't take photos standing up ^^;
Ah yes, myself as a poor fisherman enjoying a spot of opium while waiting for tea to brew XD
A tiny jinja with a fantastic view
Was quite the sight watching waves crash along the jagged coastline.
Otaru city centre in the far left, unfortunately covered in the morning mist. But it had a great view of Shukutsu where the villa, herring house and aquarium was located in.
Achievement unlocked: huffed and puffed up to the Herring House!
Minshuku Aotsukashokudou 民宿 青塚食堂
Address: 北海道小樽市祝津3-210
Had originally wanted to eat right as the place opens at 10 am, but had only came down from the Herring House at around 11 am which was just as well as the restaurant seemed to have just opened then. The aunties were a very friendly bunch and it seemed like I was their first customer, so I had a complimentary meat korokke which was the most flavourful and juiciest korokke I had in a while. Had wanted to get their grilled herring (nishin) but was advised that it would take 10-15 minutes (only in Japan, they tell you to order something cheaper as they care about your schedule and connection timings) so I had the grilled mackerel (hokke) instead. Was told that the hokke needed no additional seasoning as it was already well flavoured and dripping with excellent juices, and the lady was right. A definite must-eat if you are visiting the Herring House.
It's right at the foot of the Herring House near the bus stop, you can't miss it.
Mmm... but no time (or so I had thought)
The unassuming yet absolutely delicious korokke
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
Did I mention that their miso soup was filled to the brim with clams and they gave me some complimentary sashimi to go along with my hokke? Such a hospitable place!~ ^^ Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars
For a stroll down the Venetian-esque Otaru canal, click here.
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