Day 3 (Part 2): Noboribetsu

Day 3 (Part 1): Lake Toya can be accessed here.

Day 3 (Part 3): Nakajima Park will be coming up soon!

Noboribetsu 登別

Apparently the train timings I had checked online from Hyperdia are based on the outdated schedules, most of the trains I had checked were now running slightly later than the online timings. The good thing was that I managed to get on the Crystal Express train model for the Limited Express Suzuran ride from Higashi-Muroran station!~ This was a really lucky encounter as the "Joyful Trains" which the Crystal Express was part of are only available on a seasonal basis. The interesting thing about the train was that the passenger seats were elevated, the sides of the compartment roof are replaced with glass to allow for natural lighting and also the addition of a lounge car complete with a mini store that sold JR goods.

The commuter train from Toya station to Higashi-Muroran station took about 45 minutes

All on board the Crystal Express! It was a short 15 minutes ride to Noboribetsu though, but was totally worth it.

Really liked the comfy environs with the spacious seats and warm light diffusing through the huge glass panels

Nah, pretty JR cabin attendant! Can not complain there are no girl photos liao ah

The window where you buy food and goods is where the woman on the left is standing then there are tables and comfy chairs for up to 8 where the man on the right is sitting.

This time round I had 4 minutes to make the connection from my train to the Dounan bus headed for Noboribetsu-Onsen (登別温泉) bus stop. Having learnt from my earlier experience at Toya station, I wisely headed over to the ticket counter to buy another discounted round trip bus ticket for only 600 yen (about 8 SGD). Noboribetsu is really famous for the hot springs, notably the source at the aptly named Hell Valley or Jigokudani (地獄谷) so of course their mascot would be an demon. There's so many of the devil statues around!

The sign reads "Welcome to Noboribetsu! I'll clobber you with my spiky mace muahahaha!"

This Dounan bus was more cheery with the aqua blue seat upholstery.

"Welcome to Noboribetsu-Onsen! Just in case my smaller brother with the smaller mace did not club you to death, let me point you to your location of clubbing doom."

Noboribetsu-Onsen (登別温泉)

The bus ride to Noboribetsu-Onsen took about 20 minutes and I ended up alighting one stop ahead at the bus terminal. If you are headed direct for either the hot spring resort Daiichi Takimotokan or Jigokudani, you should alight at the Daiichi Takimoto-mae (第一滝本前) bus stop instead. The hot spring town main area was pretty much what you would expect from a touristy hot spring town, two whole rows of souvenir stores lining the main road leading up to Jigokudani with plenty of little distractions (or photo opportunities) along the way.

Alighted too early, at least I get to explore the main town area before dark

Wondered if this was the used hot spring water from the various hotels in the area

The world's first bear farm. Would have loved to visit but did not have the time to do so

Of all the different little stone statues along the way to Jigokudani, the horses were the cutest. Apparently the other little stone demon statues are for you to pray for success in exams, love, business and etc.

Not sure if they worship the King of Hell due to the thematic influence of the hot spring culture, in any case the elderly couple that I asked to help take a photo of me with the devil body was damn funny. Kept asking me to make a more scary face but I was damn paiseh.

Just at the entrance of Jigokudani was the Praying Demon Shrine (where two huge blue and red demons stood). It was always a refreshing experience asking elderly couples to help me take photos, this time round the obaa-chan kept apologising that she only knew how to press the shutter button but the photos turned out fine anyway! Jigokudani was created after Mt. Hiyori's eruption and the many hot spring vents and sulfurous streams spreading across the gorge gave it the impression and lasting name of "Hell Valley". It was a damn fine and majestic sight to behold with the pungent smell of sulfur and columns of hot steam wafting through the air.

Jigokudani 地獄谷

The Praying Demon Shrine on the right, with the helpful obaa-chan pictured in front of it not knowing how to operate the camera but probably winging the shot for her hubbie.

One word: wow. The little shrine at the bottom left of the picture is actually somewhere you can walk to to get really up close and personal with the hot spring sands and see the bubbly hot water.

Don't think I posted many full body shots of myself till date... fully prepared for the upcoming hike with my boots ^^

From the Jigokudani observatory (where the sign is located) it was a 5 minutes uphill walk to get to the Tessen Pond area which was basically a pretty large well where you can try to get a sense of how hot the steam was even after escaping into the chilly spring air. From there I had to hike uphill for another 10 minutes to get to the Oyunuma (大湯沼) Observatory which overlooks the huge Oyunuma pond. It was then another 10 minutes walk to get to the Oku no Yu (奥の湯) which was just a smaller version of the Oyunuma pond (so really, it's just for your own sense of achievement to get here).

On the way to Tessen Pond, no good picture of the pond as it was simply too steamy and the rotten egg smell of sulfur was so overpowering over there. -_-||

Oyunuma 大湯沼

Oyunuma from the observatory viewpoint. Wonder if the sulfurous steam over time turned the hill slope white? Doesn't seem to be characteristic of the stone or soil in the area. 

Achievement unlocked: reached the Oku no Yu observatory after negotiating through treacherously slippery sleet on the path. Notice I've taken off my coat despite the 5 to 10 deg C weather as I really started sweating a lot while hiking. ^^;

Oku no Yu 奥の湯

Saw a shortcut somewhere halfway on the path between the Oku no Yu Observatory and Oyunuma Observatory to get down and up close with the Oku no Yu.

Oyunuma proper. The sign reads: "The surface temperature of the water is 50 deg C and its deepest depth is 130 deg C. We will not search for you if you enter the water." Chilling.

Chilling yes, but also a very pretty place to behold.

These brave and hardworking maintenance crew was working mere steps away from the scalding hot water and mud, all to make sure that the hot spring resorts further down in the main area get their piped water.

There's the Oyunumagawa natural foot bath about 15 minutes walk from Oyunuma but I was already headed to the hot spring resort Daiichi Takimotokan so decided to give it a miss. I heard that the foot bath is a nice place to head to during autumn when it is not that cold to sit on the logs and enjoy the nice autumn foliage. But first!~ Time for some really late lunch. Looking back, I was glad that I decided to head to Onsen Ichiba first as apparently they were closing early for the day! The hotate was so huge and so awesome and they grilled it right in front of you. Made friends with a couple of 'mericuns, Jess and Beth, who were having trouble trying to order the crab legs, had to tell them that the legs are unavailable for the day. We all had sad faces. ): So in the end we decided to share the grilled hokke (mackerel) which turned out to be really fantastic without any additional sauces. In fact, the staff expressly told us that we should eat it without adding anything to it.

Onsen Ichiba 温泉市場
Address: 北海道登別市登別温泉町50

Grilled hotate, didn't really liked the orange parts much but it was really well done and not overcooked.
Rating: 3.75 out of 5 stars

Had no idea why I ordered the bacon tamago don, the bacon turned out to be not too salty (I like) but then it had a really funny aftertaste (I don't like). The rice had a really nice grilled flavour to it and was lightly tinged with soya sauce (I like).
Rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars

Our shared grilled hokke. As the marinate dripped into the sizzling charcoal below, our saliva also started dripping from our mouth. Absolutely worth a try.
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

Lavender soft serve, as I was reminded that I am not heading to Furano, Asahikawa or Biei this trip. The lavender flavour taste like cough syrup though, and there was this queasy feel to the texture of the ice cream.
Rating: 2.5 out of 5 stars.

Daiichi Takimotokan 第一滝本館

Finally it was time for my hot spring relaxation at Daiichi Takimotokan!~ Had been looking forward to it ever since I was grumbling under my breath when hiking around the Jigokudani area. I actually did not have much time to spend there due to the horrible timing of the bus back to Noboribetsu station, so decided to make the best use out of my discounted late entrance by arriving sharp at 4 pm. The higaeri cost for non-staying guests is usually 2,000 yen (about 25 SGD) but after 4 pm it was only 1,500 yen (about 18 SGD). Established in 1858, the hotel had 7 different types of hot springs and I was particularly gunning for the cure and demon spa. Even this early into my trip I was already having quite some muscle aches in my leg (have not walked so much in a long time) and blisters on my feet (important lesson learnt: never re-wear your socks even for different days). The really funny thing was that the outdoor spa faced Jigokudani, so from the Tessen Pond you could actually make out quite a number of tiny naked figures in the distant building - that's Daiichi Takimotokan lol.

For non-staying guests using the hot spring facilities, the higaeri entrance is actually to the left of the main entrance

So cool hor, looks like some weapon where you can push in and pull out one haha

You had to take off your shoes and change into their slippers or clogs (not pictured here)

Beyond this sign lies the world of naked men and disinterested obaa-chan staff

Replenishing fluids after a most refreshing soak. I miss the smooth and silky texture of the Maruyaka fruit yoghurt drink!
Rating: 3.75 out of 5 stars (lol for a drink :P)

Noboribetsu at dusk 日暮れの登別

The spas were not crowded so it was a very peaceful and serene experience, laying the small towel over your face and just letting yourself get lost in that constant gush of hot spring water spouting from the pipes into the various different pools. Had wanted to do some souvenir shopping before catching the bus back, so had to regretfully leave the hotel a mere 2 hours later. Noboribetsu at night is even quieter and perhaps even had an additional ghostly or ethereal vibe to it. Bought my first and only piece of clothing, a T shirt that said 今でしょ？ For more information on why this phrase is so popular and who it is attributed to, click here. I liked how the XL size T-shirt had an additional tag of "When is it time to lose weight? Shouldn't it be now?!" XD

No one on the street except for me

The rabbits and owls... too cute! But too expensive too ):

Decided to buy some food while waiting for the bus to come (in the end I didn't shop that long... should have stay longer in the hot spring hotel but who would have know?) and there were quite a lot of local specialties to be bought! The bear park influence is strong on this town... so many bear-related curries and soft drinks. Had my first to-go food from a convenience store, I like how they would ask me whether I wanted to microwave or not - it was a thoughtful gesture just in case you were tight for time.

White bear was a sprite-y soda while black bear was cola. Oh you don't say from their colours!

Spicy mayonnaise chicken balls were surprisingly juicy and tender.
Rating: 3.25 out of 5 stars
White bear garana drink tasted just like sprite.
Rating: depends on whether you like sprite 

Well since there's the AKB elections... I guess you can also do the same for bears. ^^;

Stay tuned for a ramen shop that you absolutely cannot miss in Sapporo!